The family has been farming in the foothills of the Rattlesnake Mountains for four generations, in the shade of the titular birch tree. Eastern Washington State is a desert climate, which means hot days and cool nights; the grapes get ripe without losing delicious acidity. That brightness is cultivated with a long, cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Then the juice hangs out on the lees (the residual yeast that turns sugar into alcohol) for two months before being aged in concrete tanks. This process highlights the mouth-watering notes of peaches and tangerines and adds a little nutty richness for balance.